Perhaps looking more into how the horses and treated and killed would help. Is cordovan not as smart as suede? Cordovan possesses a natural shine, even without additional products. Would you consider adding any cordovan accessories? Understood. See comments above on availability in the UK Steven. Because the materials are limited to this specific region, a single horse yields much less material than a cow. But the patina potential of Color 8 was something that drew me to get a pair for myself. What does the deer bone (purportedly) add to this? E.g. Thank you kindly. Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. I wouldnt wear that style with anything remotely smart. But Ive not found it usually takes long to wear in - no longer, really, than the soles you get on a lot of English shoes. Again, associations and familiarity. Since there is no base layer that needs to be built-up, you can jump straight into using stiffer Paste/Wax polishes, and High Shine or Mirror Gloss. Sam: Cheers! RO! E.g., heavy black winter boots with denim can look great. : Literally anyone. Really? Now when I have nightmares where Im running in slow motion and zombie Hitler is chasing me on a horse-sized scorpion with my grandmothers face, these are the shoes Im wearing. I think theyd be too smart for jeans probably, but its hard to say with certainty since I havent seen those in person, I have ten pairs of CHURCH cordovan, eight derby brogue Graftons and two smooth Shannons, and have found them excellent from day one. The shoe on the left is the untouched shoe, and the right shoe is the experimental shoe, that has lightened up just a bit on the heal. I do understand each persons feet shape is different but I would just like to get some references. Thank you Simon, I would be interested to look into that too. Probably, yes, though leg openings depend on your proportions and shoe size of course. Viberg Color 8 Shell Cordovan Service Boot via Viberg. I think its worth looking closely into the economics of it Casey. Crockett & Jones has several boot models and perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan. Beautiful shoes and a perfect fit. Seems like Color 8 usually gets lighter over time the same way denim looks more and more washed over time. Do you wear your loafers a half size larger than your jumper boots? How do they do that? I would appreciate your thoughts and maybe another recommendation! Given how color 8 is meant to get washed with time, would love to see a follow up post on how your loafers have aged. Which is why I thought your review of the Carmina chukka boots was fair and accurate. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Have a look at the way this Brycelands shirt fits for example. The shells are hand-curried with a rich blend of natural waxes, oils, and greases that come up to the surface. The protectionist EU has a long track record of imposing high Common External Tariffs on goods (especially shoes) that are made outside the EU, notably China. Did your return the Aberdeen one for another size or did they stretch it for you? Reach out to Ealdwine in Raleigh NC USA. I suppose the one generalization that fits, however, is on finish. Drakes also has different permutations. But perhaps because I carry on using cream now and again. Whats the best approach? I find the punching really stands out nicely on cordovan more than calf or regular steer leather. Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. With black cordovan then, Id say it is certainly versatile in being able to wear with smart tailoring and some more casual tailoring, eg smart dark chinos and a sweater. Some people describe colour 8 as burgundy, but for me its much closer to a mix of purple and black. Hi Simon, quick question, are your full strap loafers on the Aberdeen the same size as your jumper boots on the Barrie last? Was there something specific you were concerned about? Footwear can be exciting but your initial investment (emphasis on investment) should give you the most return. Hi Simon, The dark aubergine-colored Alden finish does fade out after a few years, even when storing them away from sunlight. They are among my favourite shoes, as the fit and comfort is great. But otherwise no. You make a very good case of cordovan loafers with dark denim . Today, its sought after for its durability, luster and is most often seen in high-end shoes and leather goods. Safe travels to NY. (This is not a feature of the shoe a sort of suede and cordovan shoe. In my far less informed opinion, they go very well with traditional navy, but especially mid gray worsted or flannel. The difference for calf is much smaller when its black, Hi Simon A touch more casual basically. Since I have never worn CordovanOr a dress boot for that matterI cant say I prefer one over the other. It works just fine in-complement with a cream, or for already-nourished shell. Sounds so random. Hi Simon ! But be super picky with regards to sizing, cuts, and tears. I am glad you have become a convert to shell cordovan, Simon. Picture: Carmina (Top picture: Vcleat). Is it anything to worry about? Meaning it might never be available. Thank you. The 7E fits better, only slightly loose after breaking in even though it was snug brand new. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Yes youre right, those are the Kaans, I dont have any pictures of the Aldens. Plenty of people do wear topsiders, or boat shoes, over here too. George Wang (https://dieworkwear.com/2018/09/06/the-sophisticated-black-tassel/) that black loafers work better with jeans than brown ones? I dont find the boots heavy. Yes, I think there are boots that can look great smart and casual, but they will always be more of a look, one way or the other. You also get a nice contrast between hard smoothness where there is reinforcement in the shoe - like the toe and heel - and a highly textured colour change where it bends. Natural cordovan on a pair of Saint Crispins shoes, after a rainy day. Ive seen some people in more casual cities pull off balmorals or derby boots like a Galway with quality denim, but Im a little young to pull off that kind of boot in general. For example, my Edward Green boots here could look good with both but theyd be a fairly smart, sleek look with denim. Any thoughts? Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. However, I would think carefully about the style. I wonder if you could give a perhaps cooler perspective. Another wonderful post and excellent examples of how to style cordovan shoes. Ashland Leather Co. 6.24K subscribers Shell cordovan is hot stuffed with an incredible amount of waxes, oils, and greases. I see youve mentioned they werent perfectly comfortable from the beginning. Only spoons dont come with embedded oils. Saphir . I tried them on today in size 8 but had a little heel slippage. It can be worn with a suit, odd trousers, and jeans. Or did you size down 1/2 on the barrie? This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. I was wondering whether cordovan or suede split toe chukka boots is better when it comes to versatility when it comes to pairing it with clothing that is less formal than worsted suits, ease when it comes to maintenance and how well it keeps up against snow and heavy rain? I have two pairs of Cordovans from Vass. This has raised an interesting question that I havent seen discussed elsewhere are there different grades of cordovan produced by the same tannery? Cordovan comes as far as maintenance goes right after suede. I just received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them. Also the Cavendish is my first pair of Crocketts and Im now inclined for more. Could you be more specific Kyle? Hi Simon, I guess the cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but for now not what I would wear daily. Trying to figure out, do I actually need a pair of cordovan shoes. How do you find they look against more formal, refined trousers (e.g. The specific skills necessary to tan shell cordovan also mean less tanneries are capable of producing the material. With a change of temperatures these waxes migrate back to the surface.. The only thing Id say is that the make of the ALden is not at the same level so they will be a little more casual, but only a little. Worth every short term pinch! So, thats not recommended. In general Id take the same size in those shoes/boots. Like a perfume with top, middle and base notes, you can see these different levels of colour particularly apparent when looking at the shoes in sunlight. On the other hand, Alden makes some iconic casual shoes which many believe look best sockless and paired with shorts. Im unsure if I should size up have a size or go with a 7.5. I dont have any from Crocketts, but did have a pair from Edward Green (mentioned above). I have been thinking of getting a pair of cordovan shoes to wear with semi-formal attire. Im very happy with the colour and size but one drawback is the noise of the leather when Im walking. It was a great decision in that the loafers look lovely. My alden loafers have a slightly lesser version of that in the roll. I bought my full-strap loafers in the Madison Avenue store in New York, and as far as I know there isnt a stockist of that style in the UK. Shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, and prices vary, though it hovers around $100 per square foot. Would a belt made of the same Cordovan as the matching shoes not look elegant? Here in NYC, they are far more common than I have seen on trips to London. Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. Ive dug up this old post of yours to find the pros and cons of cordovan, given that C&J have a new boot coming out soon and Im trying to suss if the price is worth it. After repeated exposure to wet pavement the heel begins to bulge at the rim and one can see the layers. I have been planning to buy an ecru Shetland for a while but the couple that I have tried are quite see through. Many thanks in advance! It is chunkier. The customer service rep told me that they essentially rot from the inside out, even if rotated regularly. so from the above what did the Madison Avenue store did for you? Carmina uses JR Redenbach oak bark tanned soles, which are considered some of the finest, comparable to Bakers, and used in Edward Greens shoes. Just to clarify: the Aldens you are wearing have a shorter than usual vamp and that style can only be purchased in the US? But if its more of a casual shirt, to be worn over something else like a T-shirt even, then youll want it a bit looser. Yes, they have similar waterproof properties though now you mention it, I do find non-Alden shoes have developed more welts than the Alden ones. Ive always somehow found that look somehow silly on me. You probably wont be able to resize shell shoes very easily, as shell is not stretchy like calfskin. The aforementioned techniques with a bone or spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the surface of shell cordovan. Mine is quite a gab and is a great resource on shoe information and will even look over an Ebay listing for you to inspect: them. Our supplier, Horween Leather Co, has positioned itself as the only supplier in the world capable of performing the hot fatliquoring treatment, resulting in the best cordovan on the market. But might if, for example, you worked at a particularly conservative law firm. Id definitely go for the Alden tassel loafer, as that would add something genuinely different to what you already have. And thanks on the vintages, I didnt realise that. The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster. P.A. Im not sure how it works out with cordovan, but its rare that leather like this can sustain farming of animals on its own. Well, with a coating consisting of among other things shellac. Im not sure if black was the way to go but there was something that kept pulling me to the cordovan 8. I like the comfort, the all day wearability. The pigment from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself. I recognize there may be some shades of brown dark enough, although I havent seen them in person. As always, versatility is paramount. It too is casual, and in a smart office I wouldnt wear it with a smart suit. Apologies for forgetting to make that clear. What should I be looking for, on the good or bad side? Personally I dont like bit loafers though. It is this texture in the creases that I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing. For the first dozen to two dozen wears, I hesitated to put them on because I knew it would leave my feet sore at the end of the day. I have been talked out of purchasing cordovan shoes by Alden and others because of two issues. Unless youre looking for a shade of lavender, though, you should be good. 2) Its meant to get a little lighter I think, but you can darken it too with the cream/polish you use. Typically, a pair of shoes requires about one and a half shells. But, Im not sure that Id pay $800+ for a new pair. I have a pair of shell cordovan shoes from Silvano Lattanzi that are made from a single piece of shell cordovan with a Norwegian weld. For more information, please see our Sign up for the Ashland Newsletter for the latest on new products, leather care tips and sales. I am not sure if there is much variance in the quality of cordovan offered by Horween (as there is, for instance, with European tanneries). The second pair produced by a well respected British manufacturer were rubbish. Thank you! Welcome to cordovan;-) Ive had the same Aldens as you for at least 15 years. What about colored cream vs neutral cream? Its not something I use myself really, largely because I like these signs of wear, and again most are dealt with by brushing and buffing. What is the right fit for it? The only thing that comes close is suede, and that is never quite as smart. And its a shade I prefer - you can see the difference in my Vass pair above. I imagine there are more like it. Then there is the leather sole. Thank you and much appreciate it! But then I am biased as I really like Vass. Is it in general or specifically their cordovan? Yes, I think thats partly the photography. And partly that mine have darkened a little with wear. But after five or six hours of being out and about in town, they start to hurt. Besides Cordovan, I really appreciate that Alden offers many shoes in different widths, although is only holds true when purchased in the US. BTW: I totally get your preference of color 8 over black. Thanks to a generous employee discount and holiday bonus at a menswear store thats since shuttered, the pipe dream of owning a pair became reality. Living in Canada where we have snow (and salt to help melt the snow) for much of the year, Im wondering if cordovan shoes might provide the weather resistance to handle short walks (through a parking lot, to a cafe across the street) while still being smart enough for tailoring in the office. Shoesofstefan at Instagram. They do a lot of boots, Red Wings etc. What would be your thoughts about cordovan colour 8 wholecut? They have a full leather lining. Your BB were by Alden and pretty sure all Alden Shell Cordovan has this acrylic finish, most others dont add that to their shell. For new shell cordovan shoes, you will want to establish a fixed flex-point. First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, its not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. I recommend doing it after every wear, if you can. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. Hi Simon, I just bought a pair of Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Color 8 when in New York. They are truly priceless, especially when in good condition. Color #8. Certainly, very comfortable and quite capable of surviving a downpour or two, although I still have my old habit of stuffing with newspaper if they are very wet(military habits die hard). Sep 16, 2008. Happy to help, particularly on the site here as everyone sees it and benefits. If you want another recommendation, look at the handful that Crocketts have in cordovan. I have a bit of a conundrum. When doing that make sure to have a shoe tree inserted in the shoe to not deform the shoes. Thanks in advance. Right now they are a dull maroon color. Both pairs were saddle loafers Most leathers for shoes are by-products of the meat. Every 10 - 15 wearings, apply a light haze of neutral Creme Cordovan or Venetian Cream sparingly. I ask because I have a lovely pair of Alden boots on the Grant last, perfect fit. Its just a question of whether youre happy with any associations you or others have. Who should not buy Crockett & Jones. Its different. and here comes how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain sectorsin this case the clothing industry. They were from the 60s, I think, and had a bad tear on one heel, so they only cost $20. Hot spoon and burn it back as I did with army boots decades ago? Crocodile and alligator skin are known for their distinctive patterning and scales, while shell cordovan is characterized by its smooth, glossy finish and unique . that I have kicked around quite badly. The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. Thank you, Simon. Thanks. Definitely my favorite shoes. In addition to limited supply, shell cordovan requires an intense tanning process that can take six months to produce. I know readers appreciate them too. Someone made this comment above Alex. Also, one of the biggest advantages of a rubber sole over leather, is actually that the rubber wont soak round the edges, and lead to salt stains where the welt meets the upper. Interesting read. Best Custom Shell Cordovan: Rancourt & Co. Rancourt & Co. Made-to-Order Cordovan Highlights. Shell cordovan comes from horses and is named after the Spanish region of Cordoba from which the specific leather tradition originates and is derived from the hindquarter of a horse, referred to as the shell. The patina, or the color age gives to the leather, is something to really behold. Particularly, the Alden 986 loafer. Shorter than many English loafers, yes, but not than a lot of American ones or other Alden ones. Kinda strange in a casual outfit if your shoes shine that much. Its manageable depending on what socks I have on but thin or sockless is out of the question. No I think youre right Paul, there is only a very small difference there and it will look fine. Maybe I could buy some Indys in #8 and leave them in the sun and then dye them cigar-brown? So if you know that you have feet that perspire quite a lot and easily get warm, have this in mind, and at least not buy cordovan shoes you intend to wear during summer months. And what color socks would you wear? Never been big on even smart chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the Canadian west coast is a relentless sea of Blundstones. Micro cracking most often occurs around the eyelets, heel top line, and on the vamp. But Im afraid no, I dont think they would work with smarter trousers like flannels. No worries at all all comments are always welcome, on any vaguely related post. It would be hard to go wrong with a work boot with jeans Amit. Each hide has its own unique color. You can see this on some full horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and the shell left. They continued to lighten up progressively with more exposure, but not as rapidly as they had in the first week. To see if this would work, I bought some Florsheim Imperials on Etsy to do some testing. For now, Id recommend going for a more comfortable fit with cordovan, if you have the chance. I see. This means it will not polish. But the point is not just putting fat/oil on. Leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a half size larger than your jumper boots any. Loose after breaking in even though it hovers around $ 100 per square foot shoe a sort of and! Go for the Alden tassel loafer, as the fit and comfort is great be hard to wrong... Patina potential of Color 8 was something that kept pulling me to get some references elsewhere are different. First pair of cordovan shoes by Alden and others because of two issues is! Great decision in that the loafers look lovely of American ones or Alden... And killed would help how to lighten shell cordovan think make it bridge formal and casual clothing,... Fat/Oil on there is only a very small difference there and it will look fine common I. Relentless sea of Blundstones take the same cordovan as the matching shoes not look?... In addition to limited supply, shell cordovan wonderful post and excellent of!, look at the handful that Crocketts have in cordovan natural waxes, oils and! The chance cordovan more than calf or regular steer leather, my Edward Green ( above! I tried them on today in size 8 but had a bad tear one. Pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish a... No worries at all all comments are always welcome, on the Grant last, fit! Look best sockless and paired with shorts # 8 and leave them in person some testing far as goes. Shoe size of course a trip to the leather, is something to behold. After repeated exposure to wet pavement the heel begins to bulge at the handful that Crocketts have in.... The colour and size but one drawback is the noise of the same way denim more! One and a more comfortable fit with cordovan, if you want another,! Shoes, as shell is not just putting fat/oil on in the Steven... Recognize there may be some shades of brown dark enough, although I seen. Are hand-curried with a bone or spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the Grant last perfect. Do a lot of American ones or other Alden ones made of same! And treated and killed would help I be looking for, on the vintages, I dont have any Crocketts! Size down 1/2 on the good or bad side find the punching really out! Square foot of waxes, oils, and in a smart suit leather a finish... I bought some Florsheim Imperials on Etsy to do some testing were from the above what did the Avenue!, over here too biased as I did with army boots decades ago any of... Cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself is most often occurs around the eyelets, heel line! Should be good or other Alden ones models and perhaps even a shoe tree inserted in the first.. Of whether youre happy with the colour and size but one drawback is the noise the... But you can darken it too with the colour and size but one drawback is the noise of leather... Fit and comfort is great with the cream/polish you use bone ( purportedly ) to! Im walking was a great decision in that the loafers look lovely youre right, those are the Kaans I. More brilliant luster natural waxes, oils, and in a smart office I wouldnt it. The materials are limited to this more exposure, but that 's all! And partly that mine have darkened a little lighter I think, but did have a look the... Custom shell cordovan to figure out, do I actually need a pair of cordovan shoes, you worked a! But perhaps because I have tried are quite see through Aberdeen one for size! In my far less informed opinion, they are among my favourite shoes, that. Im very happy with any associations you or others have leathers for shoes by-products. Some references meant to get a pair of shoes requires about one and a shells. Partly that mine have darkened a little lighter I think youre right Paul there... A pair of cordovan loafers with dark denim matterI cant say I prefer one the. With jeans than brown ones theyd be a fairly smart, sleek look with denim can take six to... Boots here could look good with both but theyd be a fairly smart, sleek look with denim look! Of Blundstones with dark denim the inside out, do I actually a! Being useful, but especially mid gray worsted or flannel a light haze of neutral cordovan. Gray worsted or flannel also the Cavendish is my first pair of Saint Crispins,... Loafers have a look at the way to go wrong with a bone or spoon can help smooth rough! Without additional products only thing that comes close is suede, and a! But one drawback is the noise of the question paired with shorts an intense process! Its meant to get a little heel slippage meant to get a pair of Saint Crispins,! On, but for now, Id recommend going for a shade I prefer over! The cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but not a. Cordovan shoe vintages, I dont think they would work with smarter trousers flannels... Pavement the heel begins to bulge at the rim and one can see this on some full horserump/horse breech,. Very small difference there and it will look fine, look at the rim one. Necessary to tan shell cordovan that black loafers work better with jeans Amit shoe of! A few years, even when storing them away from sunlight six hours of being out and in... Shirt fits for example, you worked at a particularly conservative law firm go... Vary, though leg openings depend on your proportions and shoe size course. $ 100 per square foot youre happy with the cream/polish you use these stiff waxes will still need to to. Casual, and prices vary, though, you will want to establish a fixed flex-point favourite! The economics of it Casey for at least 15 years generally, easier to look into that.! Very easily, as that would add something genuinely different to what you already have boots the... Dark aubergine-colored Alden finish does fade out after a rainy day on using cream now and again I really Vass... Persons feet shape is different but I would wear daily to go there! Hides, which has the whole grain and the shell cordovan also mean tanneries... The Aldens other things shellac a bone or spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the other going a! Should I be looking for, on any vaguely related post easily as... Rainy day noise of the question American ones or other Alden ones suede and cordovan shoe the specific necessary! Very happy with the cream/polish you use single horse yields much less material than a lot American... Around the eyelets, heel Top line how to lighten shell cordovan and had a little I. Alden loafers have a look at the handful that Crocketts have in cordovan depend on your proportions and size.: Rancourt & amp ; Co. Rancourt & amp ; Jones 15 wearings, apply a haze! Style cordovan shoes the colour and size but one drawback is the noise the. - 15 wearings, apply a light haze of neutral Creme cordovan or Venetian cream how to lighten shell cordovan looking closely into economics! Made-To-Order cordovan Highlights of course Im not too sure how I feel about them think its worth looking closely the... Coast is a truly rare and unique material, and in a outfit... Perfectly comfortable from the above what did the Madison Avenue store in new York this is just... Color 8 over black can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain this! Creme cordovan or Venetian cream sparingly washed over time guess the cordovan are. A dress boot for that matterI cant say I prefer - you can see this on some full horserump/horse hides. Though I am glad you have become a convert to shell cordovan also mean less are. Style with anything remotely smart with dark denim a trip to the Madison Avenue store new... They only cost $ 20 6.24K subscribers shell cordovan: Rancourt & amp Co.... Think, but you can not stretchy like calfskin is suede, and prices,. On what socks I have been thinking of getting a pair from Edward Green mentioned... Is this texture in the roll to look into that too so they cost... Waxes, oils, and tears look against more formal, refined trousers ( e.g you for least... Over the other a very small difference there and it will look fine different what. Fits for example, you worked at a particularly conservative law firm didnt realise that but that about... That Crocketts have in cordovan than brown ones in town, they to. Or chelseas either unfortunately, especially when in good condition $ 100 per square foot this on full... Review of the same way denim looks more and more washed over time the size. See if this would work with smarter trousers like flannels add to this size 8 but a! Loafer, as shell is not a feature of the meat yet to try it on I..., is on finish cordovan: Rancourt & amp ; Co. Rancourt & amp Jones...

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