The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). I also found the comments of others instructive and food for thought. Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. She is very kind and nice These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Thank you in advance. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. I am happy to share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is complete, if it is helpful? Have a good weekend. Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? Their sessions do include fittings. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Here is a simple way to think about it. . Hi, So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. Hi Sam Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. Thanks. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. Wonderful. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. It looks great. Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. Or would it be too structured? (In my case I am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am open to other suggestions..). P.S. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. But then youre paying over twice the price. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Great thank you very much! Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. Hi Simon Firstly, the armhole is quite low and it is restrictive (I compare this to a subsequent bespoke suit I had made by Ciardi). Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. I was wondering if you knew how prices for Saville Row Bespoke and Classic Bespoke have changed at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury since this article was written in 2016? I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. But yes, I know the trend you mean. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. No, not necessarily. As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. I am a long time reader of your blog, and I am delighted to say that I am going to be getting my first bespoke suit this fall from W&S based on your review. Jennie Adamson et al. They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. As there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Looking forward to your thoughts. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? Richard. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. Thanks. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! Since I am attempting to avoid the common pitfalls of my first bespoke suit, I am going to get a mid-grey or charcoal suit that could be a great suit to wear for work throughout the year. Includes access to the digital magazine. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. Thanks as always, In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. Ill post pictures of the second one later, but there are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. which is better in your opinion? The company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. A similar question. I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? 1. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. How would you compare them to Tim Everest or C&D for MTM in terms of quality and value? Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 They wont move the button or buttonhole, but they might open the shoulder seam and pick one side up slightly. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. Just what Im looking for. Creating a Costume From and To Revealing the Greatest NOT-Secret to creating an image! Apparel & clothing. We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. Yes I would. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. Hi Stephen, Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. Hi Simon. Very nice suit. All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. I mean look how they photographed those models. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. That makes more sense. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. Let me know if that doesnt answer your question I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? in the style breakdown series. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? 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